In Spain, innovative fashion followed the growth of an upper class, who sought new ways to express their status following the “discovery” of a “New World.” From the 15th century, the tiered, hooped petticoat shaped a bell skirt for a style that was swift to infect women’s fashion from Italy to England. Although in Spain the style remained rather calm, across Europe it took on the nature of a rabid cream-puff. In France and England, dresses often appeared as though foaming, frothing, and going into convulsions.

Fortunate Fashion Cristobal Balenciaga and Mariano Fortuny arrived on the scene in the 20th centur, and with them Spanish fashion evolved to a less vengeful appreciation of the feminine figure. While Fortuny designed to complement the female form, his gowns introduced a certain degree of liberation to Spanish dressing. The new style freedom was followed up by Balenciaga, whose work was revolutionary in the industry. Balenciaga is credited with setting the female silhouette free from the constrictions of the “belle époche.”

Mario Fortuny was a Renaissance man. His pleated Delphos gowns were cut to drape and flatter the feminine figure. But though his dress designs were continuously in high demand, Fortuny always thought of himself as an artist. His interest in orientalism and neoclassicism impelled him to experiment with fabric and to create lush, decorative textiles using hand and screen painting.

By comparison, Cristobal Balenciaga was one of the most crucial fashion designers of the 20th century. Attributed not only a style but a technique, Balenciaga created some of his most influential collections from his fashion house on Paris’ George V Avenue. His innovative work continues to inspire modern international fashion.

Spanish fashion has gone beyond talent and creativity. The success stories of Spanish fashion companies like Zara, Mango, Springfield, Mayoral and Tutto Picollo have propelled the fashion of Spain into the world market. And to the globally revived interest in authenticity, the traditional dress styles of the flamenco dancer and the gaucho offer no small inspiration. When international designers go listening for that call from elsewhere, Spain’s unique culture resounds strong and clear.

Spotted, ruffled, and brightly colored, the gal in a flamenco dress is a walking fiesta. It is no surprise then that the frock was born at the April Fair of Seville. In 1847, Queen Isabel II granted use of the town’s rural outskirts for use as fairgrounds, and every year since, the Feria de Abril brought out the singing, dancing, party side of Sevillanos everywhere. What began as a livestock fair has evolved into a boisterous celebration of Andalusian culture and costume.

The flamenco dress grew out of the simple smock with a two or three flounced skirt, traditionally worn by the wives and women of peasant livestock dealers. These women were mostly gypsies and poor folk, and so fashion flare was fettered by the size of the purse if not by expanse of the imagination. They accentuated their best show of style with embroidered shawls, large earrings, and flowers in the hair.

It was not until the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, attended by the Spanish upper classes, that the style became a fashion, changing according the season. With the same desire to see and be seen, the wealthy families of Seville claimed a part in the festivities and folkloric atmosphere. The Feria saw a swift rise in annual turn out, while the flamenco dress received increasing attention. Fabrics became richer and the selection varied. From humble beginnings, the flamenco dress was to become Spain’s national costume.