When top designers heed that call from elsewhere, they seek inspiration from traditional sources world-wide, and Turkish designers have never need look far. Fashion in Turkey began as early as the 12th century, with the decline of the Byzantine Empire. The Turks arrived in caftan and trousers. The Byzantines had a love of silk, gold-cloth, and lavish embroidery. By the time Constantinople fell to the Turks in 1453, the two cultures had been influencing one another for some time. The Byzantines left in jeweled caftans, and the Turks went on to invent the famed tulip and crescent moon patterns of Ottoman luxury textiles.

Ottoman woman wore the chalvar under a long-sleeved tunic and top-coat, and accessorized with pointed-toe, backless slippers. The Ottoman top coat, crafted in a luxury fabric, often embroidered silk fabric, is another piece whose timeless appeal has not escaped contemporary stylists.

While the caftan, the chalvar, the Ottoman top-coat, and the Turkish slipper make runway appearances world-wide, sophisticated color mixes, experimental cuts, and surprising detail are all found in the latest collections out of Istanbul. The Ottomans had a love for luxury textiles, particularly Bursa silk, and so Turkey has had a long history of quality fabric production. The industry has now turned a focus to making Istanbul the next fashion capital.

Young Turkish designers are seeking names on the international scene, and the last several decades have seen Rifat Ozbek, Hussein Chalayan, Dice Kayek, and Atil Kutoglu achieve international recognition. Turning heads of late has been designer Bora Aksu, whose break out autumn/winter collection of 2003 captured the attention of Dolce and Gabana, and London’s own house of fast style, Topshop. The famed Italian duo bought several pieces from the collection, meanwhile Topshop’s New Generation design award enabled participation for Aksu’s participation in London Fashion Week. The designer has since been awarded the Topshop New Generation acclaim another two times for collections spring/summer 04 and spring/summer 05.

Modern and for the most part secular, the Turks favor contemporary fashion. In the Turkish cities, the latest styles are essential. Sophistication and glamour are what’s in with young Turkish men and women, and these style connoisseurs have a keen eye for creating edgy casual looks. But in Turkey, as in the rest of Europe, style is not reserved for the young generation only. Older Turkish men and women dress with as much elegance and appreciation for style.

Runway looks are not the only ones to be found in the country. About a third of the population observes Islamic traditions of dress. Despite a narrow, seemingly fixed Western vision of what constitutes Islamic dress, in Turkey – and in a good many other countries with large Muslim populations - Islamic dress does not signify the burka. If the burka is seen worn in Turkey, it is on women of other nationalities.

Observant Muslim women in Turkey will wear the tesettur, a headscarf and a light-weight top-coat. As often they will simply opt for modest dress - in other words, dress that is not tight-fitted and does not reveal the round of breasts or bottom. The exact way the criteria are met is in most cases dictated by the imagination and personal expression of the wearer.